Horse & Rider
Swinging Fender Saddles
Swinging fender saddle is an Australian stock saddle used all over the world for many different activities which demands long hours in the saddle and a more comfortable seat for the rider. Swinging fender saddle is suitable for starting young horses as it is more comfortable for everyday pleasure riding and is also used for Australian campdrafting competitions and stockman challenges. The swinging fender saddle is designed for security and comfort in the saddle. It has stylish roots from the English saddle in the design of the seat, panels, fenders, and stirrups. Swinging fender saddle has a much deeper seat, higher cantle, and knee pads in the front which make it a very comfortable and secure saddle for the rider how to ride in rough conditions or spend long hours on the horse. The swinging fender saddle is kept on with a girth attached to billets under the flaps, simmer to those on a dressage saddle. A surcingle passing over the seat of the saddle is also used to provide more security and safety. The backside of the saddle is usually secured by a crupper. A breast collar is sometimes added. A saddle blanket or numnah is used under the swinging fender saddle to absorb the sweat and to protect the back or the horse. Origin of the swinging fender saddle: Initially, the swinging fender saddle was a park-style saddle similar to the modern English showing saddle, with set knee rolls and short flaps. However, this style of saddle did not suit the tough Australian surface and did little protect the rider’s legs from sweat. Thus the flaps were lengthened, thigh and knee pad added, the seat deepened and the cantle raised. A famous saddle maker developed a design that was popular for a number of years, but the design over time became too extreme and lost favour to more conservative styles. During the early days of a buck jumping in Australian rodeos, riders in a modified stock saddle using a crupper instead of the flank cinch used in the USA. Ladies stock saddle were traditionally made with a pigskin seat and with longer, pigskin covered knee and thigh pads. As the Australian stock saddle evolved the knee pads were moved away from the knee to a position on the saddle further up the leg. However, they are still called kneepads but are positioned to contact the upper part of the rider’s thigh. This gives the rider much more security. If the horse stopped suddenly or the rider moves forward, he locked in under and behind the kneepad. The seats of the saddle are also redesigned. The one thing that has remained constant on the Australian stock saddle is the stirrup bar. The stirrup bar has proven to be a great safety feature. The stirrup leather or fender strap passes over it and is held in place by the upward curve at the rare end of the bar. This allows the stirrup leather or strap to slip off and release the rider in the case of fall and drag situation. It a stirrup iron gets caught on a post or a tree stump or any other item securely attached to the ground the stirrup bars design allows it to bend in an outward direction when the horse pulls away from whatever it is caught once again allowing the release of the stirrup leather or fender strap and ensuring horse and rider safety. The original stirrup leather was 1 ¼ “in width. This remains the standard even today for an Australian stock swinging fender saddle. The original stock saddle was built on a curved timber tree with a steel framework to prevent distortion and spreading of the gullet of the tree which is shaped to a horse wither but if not made strong enough will spread allowing the saddle under the rider's weight to come down on the horse's sensitive backbone and shoulder area. With new technology becoming available in the mid-1960s different materials were adopted to saddle tree design. These include fiberglass, carbon fibre, Kevlar, and polyurethanes. Most of these products were a great help to saddle makers. Saddles could be made stronger, lighter, and closer contact. While the saddle was vastly improved by the use of these new materials saddle making became a huge industry in Australia. The new technology improved and streamlined production methods. Today’s Swinging fender saddle still has the original design features of a dished seat and the Australian kneepad. The stirrup bar is still in use but the narrow 1 ¼” stirrup leather is replaced by an American style fender eliminating pinching and increasing strength, security, and safety. The underside of swinging fender saddle in now sheepskin-lined and much more close contact than the old-style hair stuffed panels of a century ago. Swinging fender saddle has become lightweight, close contact, and improved in strength. While its physical appearance has changed it has maintained its distinctly Australian features built into it by the original designers over a century ago. The craftsman of the swinging fender saddle knew the demands then of the Australian bush and those demands are the same today. Those craftsman sure were right when they designed and invented the unique Swinging fender saddle. Fitting a swinging fender saddle on a horse: If the saddle does not fit properly to the horse then the horse gets hurt. This is a simple and pain fact. The longer the loose fitting saddle is used the more hurt your horse feel. Sometimes riders do not realise they are using a loose fitting saddle and do not associate the signals a horse is giving with the fact that the horse is getting a sore back because they are riding in a poorly fitting saddle. When a horse feels pain and discomfort from a poorly fitted saddle they show certain behaviour like: Horse moves away from you when you try to fit the saddle. Trying to nip the rider as the saddle is being fitted. They start stamping the ground. And also start swishing their tail. Another important point to remember is that a horse with a sore back will not only perform poorly but can be very dangerous thing to ride on. It is very important for you and your horse’s health that the saddle will fit your horse correctly. Australian saddles fit differently on a horse than Western and English saddles, and a different fitment approach is required. Be certain to find someone with the appropriate expertise regarding Australian saddles and how they should fit your horse. Australian saddles sit more forward and more comfortable on a horse’s back than traditional western saddles. The stirrup are also attached in a more forward position. This puts the rider’s centre of gravity and weight in a more forward position rather than the middle of the spin. The girth should be 1” to 3” behind the horse’s front legs. This position is unquestionably for more comfortable for most horses and greatly enhances horse performance. Before undertaking a long ride with your new saddle, we suggest many shorter rides allowing the padding to confirm and adjust to your horse. Procedure: The ideal fit for the swinging fender saddle is that the front and back of the saddle should be level rather than the front is kept high or low. This will distribute the rider’s weight evenly over the horse’s back. Do not just consider the front and back of the saddle, also look at the seat itself. The seat in the saddle is nice and level. To determine that the saddle is fairly level, just eyeball it, there is no need to use a level. It is not always possible to get this perfect textbook fitment shown here. However, if the front is a little higher or a little lower, you will be okay, as long as you did not have the extremes. Several of the downsides of the saddles are made with deeper seats and higher cantle, so naturally, the back of the seat will sit slightly higher than the front on these models. When the saddle is levelled, there should be even contacted along with the panels at the front of the saddle. There should be two to four inches of clearance between the top of the withers and the top of the saddle. If you don’t have enough clearance between the top of the withers and the saddle, the front of the saddle is obviously sitting too low on the horse. Therefore the clearance should be moderate so that the saddle is even from both sides. In riding position, adjust the stirrup leather length so when you are sitting in the saddle your thigh runs parallel with the kneepad. You’ll ride longer on the stirrup with your feet forward and heel down. You should place 25% of your weight in each stirrup and balance in the seat of the saddle. This ensures an even weight distribution on the horse’s back. If your horse is developing sore spots, you always need to consider two points, saddle fitment, and the rider’s technique. When posting in an Australian saddle, you need to use a much lower post than you might have been taught by your riding instructor. You have to make a few riding adjustments in order to enjoy the many benefits of an Australian saddle. After you master Aussie Riding, it is unlikely you will ever want to ride Western or English horse ever again. Swinging fender saddle brands: When you are looking for a Swinging fender saddle you will first need to decide what type of Australian riding you are planning to do. Swinging fenders are categorized by their intended use, the material from which they are made, the techniques which are used to build the saddle, tree types and more. There are additional choices you can make regarding tooling or stamping, colour, types of leather, rigging position, and cantle height. Some famous brand and features of swinging fender half breed and cross breed saddle are as follows: Tekna Swinging fender saddle w/Adjustable Gullet: Brand new from the famous Tekna range. Easy care features, synthetic material that is lightweight and so easy to clean! Gullet plates available in wide, medium or narrow with adjustable. Please note: this saddle uses a ring buckle girth or a 2 buckle cinch. Tekna Swinging fender saddle w/Adjustable Gullet & Stirrup Bars: The popular Tekna Swinging fender saddle now comes with stirrup bars, allowing for more fender movement. Available in traditional brown, this saddle is also ideal for pony club riders who require a stirrup bar set up. Features easy care, synthetic material that is light weight and so easy to clean! The saddle comes fitted with a medium Gullet Plate. Please note: this saddle uses a ring buckle girth or a 2 buckle cinch. Horsemaster Swinging fender saddle: Swinging fender saddle made of lightweight, easy care synthetic material. Fibreglass tree. GG Rider Swinging fender saddle poley: Manufactured using synthetic material to provide long life and easy care, with the added advantage of being lightweight. Full fibreglass tree is designed to give horse and rider unsurpassed comfort. These synthetic saddles resist sweat and dirt more easily than traditional leather. Sidney Hamilton Half Breed Saddle: Australian made. A close contact saddle, handcrafted from finest leathers. It is designed for competition, pleasure riding. The fender is mounted on a stirrup suspension bar, to allow riders to get their legs forward. Available in wide and medium gullets. Ord River Campdraft Saddle: It is carefully made with high quality leather and levelled. Basket weave leather embossed features across the saddle. Further details with contrast stitching and solid brass hardware. Swinging fenders with stirrup bars and in the event of an emergency, the fender is able to come off. Solid alloy stirrup. Ord River Half Breed Poley: A swinging fender saddle designed to give comfort for both horse and rider. Swinging fenders are attached to the full fibreglass tree, which gives the rider easy leg movement. A style of saddle used extensively by leading campdraft competitors and outback stockman. Flinders Swinging Fender M.ll: The mark 11 features an improved seat to give a better position. It’s hardware is made up of brass throughout and an improved fleece has been used as padding.
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Australian Saddles
Australian stock saddles are famous worldwide for their comfort and durability, hence it is the preferred choice for riders who spends hours every day in the saddle. With their deep seat and high cantle and knee pads they provide greater security in the saddle (compared to english saddles). And riders all over the world use them when training young horses or nervous riders that are not too experienced as it gives you extra balance. Traditional Australian Saddle Pictured above is a traditional Australian stock saddle. They have a plain flap and look similar to a traditional english dressage saddle. This plain flap design is the old school/traditional style of making the Australian saddles. Alot of people still prefer it as it keeps you secure and your legs don't pinch through the stirrup leathers. These saddles are often also referred to as a 'Stock poley saddle'. The poley is another word for the knee blocks. Even though all australian saddles have the poleys, only some designs use it as a reference name. You can browse all of our Australian stock saddles here. Half Breed Saddle & Swinging Fender Saddles The half breed saddle design has got 'swinging fenders' rather than solid plain flaps. This allow extra movement in the saddle for the rider. The swinging fenders is the more modern way of saddle making for Australian saddles. Western vs Australian Saddles The swinging fender saddle looks similar to a western saddle, the main difference is the high knee blocks and the stirrups are further forward on an Australian saddle than a western saddle. The Aussie saddle does also not have a horn, and the rigging dee position on a western saddle puts it further back on the horse than an Australian stock saddle. Sitting further forward on the horse can give the rider a closer connection with the horse by sinking down in the saddle more (following the sway on the back) and being closer to the horse's head. Australian stock saddles are also fitted slightly different than a standard western saddle. Make sure you use a saddle fitter that is experienced with stock saddles to ensure the perfect fit. As a general rule - there should be four fingers between the horse's wither and the saddle when the saddle is resting on the horse's back (with no rider). If the saddle is leaning back or forward, this can be adjusted with a suitable saddle riser. Again, make sure you confirm any changes with correctional saddle pads with your saddle fitter first. If you have just changed from english or western riding to a stock saddle - you will need to change your rider seat and position slightly. Your legs will also be further forward with your heels down in an Aussie saddle rather than a Western Saddle. Benefits of an Australian Saddle Due to its durability (at least the old reputable Australian saddle makers), the aussie saddles are popular for a range of disciplines including pleasure riding, cattle work, endurance riding, polocrosse, arena work and trail riding. You will get the same benefits as an english dressage saddles with the secure deep seat, which puts the rider in the correct position, but also the added comfort from its padded seat ang high knee blocks. It is often referred to as the perfect blend of a dressage and western saddle - as it has taken the best features from both worlds. The Aussie saddle trend and following started in Australia but has extended worldwide now and particularly growing in popularity in USA, Canada and Europe. The high knee blocks (poleys) also gives extra confidence and security for the rider, as rugged terrain or a scared horse can rock you out of balance and you can easily fall off in a non secure english saddle. The Aussie's solved this problem by added extra large knee blocks to stop this from happening. And as you never need to stand up in the saddle when using a stock saddle, they are never in the way. They would obviously not be suitable for a rider that needs more freedom, such as showjumpers or racing. If you want a light weight and secure saddle that distributes your weight (and you don't intend to use it for roping) then an Australian Saddle could be the perfect choice. This is an Australian saddle manufactured specifially for polocrosse. Its much shorter over the horse's back which suits short backed horses such as Quarter horses. Plain Flap vs Swinging Fender If you are unsure and on the fence on whether to go for a traditional style stock saddle or a swinging fender half breed saddle - it depends what you want to use it for. For polocrosse we recommend a swinging fender, while a traditional style stock saddle is perfectly fine if you only do pleasure riding or arena work. We recommend trying both before you buy either to make sure you know what suits you the best. Most popular Australian Saddle brands Australia is known for quality saddle making where the design has been perfected over the last 200 years. A popular brand and one of the world leaders is Syd Hill & Sons. They make both half breed, swinging fender, traditional, western and treeless saddles to cater for everyone's individual needs. Australian Saddles For Sale ProHorse Saddlery is an Australian saddlery who offers a large selection of Aussie stock saddles for sale. We proud ourselves in prompt express post shipping worldwide, with 14 days free trails and money back guarantee. View some of our Australian saddles for sale here.
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What to look for in a Lasso
When asked to describe a lasso as well as what it is used for, most people would simply tell you that it is a piece of rope that cowboys and ranch owners use to capture horses and cattle. While this is technically true, there is so much more to the lasso than what most people associate it with. Continue reading for more information on different variations of lassos, their uses, history, and our best selling lasso ropes. History of the Lasso The word lasso derives from the Spanish word "lazo", meaning "tie". While lassos are mostly associated with America, specifically cowboys and Western America, there is evidence of lassos being used all throughout history; in fact, images depicting Ancient Egyptian Pharaohs using lassos have been discovered and recorded. In addition to this, lassos have been recorded to have been in use by the Asian Huns as well as the Persians as a critical tool in battle. Native Americans used them in battle against the Spanish conquistadors, and when Spain introduced horses to the New World, Native Americans quickly caught on to using the lasso from horseback. This is where the modern use of lassos in rodeo got its roots. It has also been documented that African slaves in Mexico were among the first individuals to use lassos (also referred to as "lariats") to round up loose cattle from horseback, bringing upon the very first "cowboys". Variations of the Lasso While most people may simply just assume that lassos are made from rope, used to round up livestock, and there isn't much more to consider, there are different variations of the lasso that have different uses. In fact, each year, as more studies are done on what works and what dosen't work for ranchers, rodeo stars, and cowboys alike, more types of ropes and lassos are being designed than ever before. Initially, lassos were usually made of horse hair or cowhide. Hair ropes were often a favorite due to being lighter than cowhide ropes, but they often did not age or wear well, and were prone to kinks. Cowhide ropes, while producing better results, were quite heavy and clunky, and posed the risk of easily breaking once a few strands wore out. While these types of ropes are now outdated and often times not as useful as other types, it is not completely uncommon for older, more traditional ropers to prefer to use these classic types of rope. After years of trial and error, new materials were introduced to produce a more useful lasso. The modern lasso is usually made of hemp or nylon, both of which have proved to perform much better than their predecessors. In some cases, ropes will be made up of a blend of different materials to produce a more superior product that combines the best aspects of different types of rope. Hemp and nylon are some of the materials of choice for most modern cowboys and ranchers. The materials have proven to be substantially more durable and useful than both hair and cowhide ropes. For those who prefer a more classic type of rope that pays tribute to the lasso's roots, the Maguey lariat is often favored. Maguey rope is made from Agave strands, and the finished product is smooth and strong, known for its stiffness, which is great for holding a good noose. What to Consider When Purchasing a Lasso Keeping the different variations, as well as the different materials in mind is crucial when deciding which type of lasso works best for you. Some ropes will be more stiff than others, and every rope is different, just like every user is different. Take into consideration what you will be using it for and what you expect out of the lasso. Think about the type of movement and giveback you'd like to recieve from the rope while using it. Consider the weight as well; while this may not seem like a huge factor at first, the weight of your rope can be the factor that decides if you're going to rope in your target or not. People tend to have different preferences for lariat ropes in terms of material and weight. As a general rule, we'd recommend one of the Neil Love ropes for a beginner as: - They are Superior quality with non kinking material (easier to learn with) - Rope material blend is made to be used in both cold and warm weather - Its slightly heavier/thicker but still flexible, which makes it easier to use - Design: Its available in 3 different colors, with a neater finish on the end (not a knot) - Also available in 2 x sizes - we'd recommend the shorter one (30') for a beginner Remember, this lasso is for you, and what works for someone else may not always work for you as well. How to Throw a Lasso The first step in throwing a lasso is to ensure that you have your lasso prepared. Take your rope and fashion it into neat, similar-sized circles. Take the smaller hoop at the end-the hondo/honda- and thread the rope through to form a hoop. Keep this close; this is the end that you will end up throwing! Bring your hand holding the hoop forward at stomach level. Bring your hoop into a swing over your head and find your target. If your target is a live animal, wait until you have a perfect view between the ears or horns. When you're ready, bring your swinging loop forward and release, visualizing yourself actually reaching out and touching the spot you're aiming to rope. If you're aiming to rope the horns and you've gotten one of them, bring your hand steadily to the side to ease the rope on to the other horn as well. As soon as you've got your rope around your target(s), quickly reach out and tighten up any slack in the rope. And voila! You've got yourself a successful lasso throwing. Photo: Blogspot After using your lasso, you'll want to recoil it neatly and hang somewhere where it will not get damp. Dampness-whether it be caused by rain or water leakage-will cause the rope to become limp once it dries out. This makes it almost impossible to throw a good lasso, as the rope will not have enough integrity to stay intact while it is being thrown. For this reason, keep your ropes in a dry area whenever not in use. Keeping all of this information in mind, you can now move forward towards choosing the lasso that works best for you and your roping needs. Remember that roping is a difficult sport, and it is important not to get discouraged when you are first starting out. Practice certainly makes perfect, and any expert roper will tell you that roping is all about taking the love you already have for the sport and integrating it into your skill set.
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How To Score High - EA Dressage Tests
How to Ride a EA Dressage Test & Receive a good score 1) Prepararation Make sure you sign up for a test within your abilities. Train with a dressage coach on a regular basis to get advise from an experienced trainer on the ground. Make a plan with your coach on how to prepare for your test, practice your weaknesses on a weekly basis. Even the easiest tests requires a balanced horse that can perform walk trot and canter in a relaxed manner. 2) Warm-up A lot of riders get nervous on the day and warm up for too long. Make sure you familiarise your horse with the area, however don't warm up for too long to make the 'horse tired' as this won't benefit you in the show ring. A warm up between 20-40minutes is usually enough. Ride each gait and bring a cach or a friend that can keep a track of time and let you know how far off you are. It is usually a good idea to have a last canter and trot in each gait right before going in. 3) Relax The overall impression is the most important aspect a dressage judge looks at, is there harmony between the horse and rider? Is the horse relaxed, calm and comfortable? A horse in a steady rythm with his head high and not collected will score better than a horse that works in a frame but looses rhythm is unsteady or unbalanced. 4) Work on Transitions Transitions, transitions, transitions - you've heard it all before. There is a reason to why all coaches ask you to do lots of exercises with transitions. Transitions makes the horse carry themselves without leaning on the bit and helps them work through their back and hold them more through their back legs. 5) Match the horse with a suitable rider Alot of people try to re-train young/inexperienced horses in a new discipline even though the rider does not have the knowledge and experience to do so. Do NOT buy a green horse just because its cheap and beautiful, go for an older schoolmaster that can teach you the basics before trying to train a green young horse. The Basics of EA dressage tests Dressage competitions involve a number of movements on horses that are already determined to be ridden in a chronological order. These movements are usually performed in a 20 x 60 meters area arena. Occasionally, an arena of area 20 x 40 meters is also chosen depending on the requirements. Throughout the arena - 12 letters are placed that are more like an indication of the starting point of the movements, the finish points, the points where the pace has to be changed, or the lead has to be taken. Every dressage competition, in general, involves a horse to display three different paces. These paces include walking trotting and cantering. There are a number of tests in Australia that are set up by the Equestrian Australia national federation. These tests vary in difficulty and range from beginner level to an advanced level. Beyond that, the other tests that include the FEI tests are those that are conducted on a national level. There is an official competition arranged by EA that hosts over 21 seniors, 10-21 young riders and about 10 pony riders. Every state hosts inter-school competitions that make use of the dressage tests as they are set by EA. Typically, there are three types of EA dressage types that include: Dressage tests for beginners Dressage tests for intermediate riders Dressage tests for advanced riders. Photo: Flickr How often are the EA Dressage tests updated? While there is no fixed date set for updates for these tests - they are constantly under review and do get updated quite regurarly. For instance, the last update for the EA Dressage tests was made on July 1, 2018. What to think about before your first dressage test? Competing in dressage can be quite daunting as it is a spectator sport where every single move is judged, and you are trying to perform at your peak while being nervous together with a 500kg live animal so there are a lot of things that can go wrong. Make sure you study your test in detail and know it inside and out, there is nothing worse than forgetting your test in the middle of riding it. Manage your time wisely and make sure you arrive early on the competition day to familiarise yourself with the surroundings and find out where your warm-up and competition ring is and whether there are any scratched riders. In short, you should be taking each and every precaution so as to let things flow smoothly. Photo: Flickr As far as the dress code goes, usually, you will be required to wear a short coat that is usually black or navy blue in color with white breeches or jodhpurs. Along with this, you will also be required to wear a tie and a stock. In summer however, coats are not always necessary to wear.
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Bombproofing A Horse
The term bombproofing is used to describe the process of training your horse by the use of a logical plan to make certain that it is calm in situations where their flight response usually kicks in - circumstances like the presence of scary objects or noises. When a horse is for sale is said to be 'bombproof' usually means it is more desirable as it is more suitable for kids and beginners. This type of training transforms your horse from shying, rearing or bolting when scared to being more confident, controllable, pleasurable and safer to use while riding and handling it.Majority of the aspects involving horses require a certain level of understanding of the horse's psychology and bombproofing is not different. All horses are different and diverse so some might be easy to train while some might prove to be such a hard task. The training difficulty or ease on different horses might be impacted by factors such as their background training, how early they were handled as a foal which might still have a huge impact on how they behave even as adults. Recommendations Make sure you use an experienced trainer if you are inexperienced with horses. Don't rush through the training. Repeat, repeat and reward. Keep the training short, 10-20 minutes per day is ok. Use Tools around the stable - You can use a plastic bag for desensentising the horse. Cheap and effective! Horses learn when they are calm, curious and are having fun. So make sure you keep your horse's anxiety level low in a clam environment. The personalities of the different horses might also play a part in the training. There are horses that are confident and full of themselves hence tend to pushy while others are always nervous hence a timid nature. The nature of the horse will impact how effective the bombproofing training will be and whether it will be easy or tough to do the training. Be patient and try to understand how the horse works and time when it is most energetic. Both the trainer and the horse need to have some level of connection in order for the training to be effective. Shouting or beating the horse in order for it to become submissive will only make the training much harder and can cause a lot of nasty habits. The trainer needs to demonstrate what they want the horse to do in a very clear way. Just like in all languages both parties have to understand the message in order to communicate. Horses will read your body language and will sense if you are tense or angry.
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Why Use A Bitless bridle
Benefits Using a bitless bridle can be very beneficial to both the horse and its handler. Some of the benefits include: The bridle being kinder on the horse since there is no metal bar positioned in their mouth. By using the bitless bridle some unwanted behaviours caused by the presence of the metal bit in the horse can be eliminated. The performance and health of sensitive and nervous horses could be improved. The use of a bitless bridle also helps in the fostering of a trusting relationship between the horse and the rider. Using this type of bridle also enables the rider to enjoy the ride since there are less hindrances which make it more natural. Avoids teeth and mouth problems from pressure points and pulling. Both the rider and the horse can enjoy one of the above benefits or a combination of them. The most sensitive part of the horse is the mouth which is why even the slightest application of pressure on it can be extremely painful. The bit is mainly constructed using metal and when it is included in the bridle it puts pressure on the mouth bars, the lips, mouth roof and the tongue. The pressure applied on these areas depends on the design of the bit in addition to the force used by the rider. The bone structure in the mouth region can be impacted over time when the bit is used regularly. Some riders think certain bit designs are kind enough on the horses but the kindest thing one can do to their horse is eliminate the bit altogether. When the bit on the bridle is causing discomfort or excruciating pain to the horse some will decide to suffer silently while some will start acting out and behaving in certain manners to express their pain. These erratic behaviour can be avoided by using the bitless bridles. How They Work The bitless bridles are becoming more and more popular today and can be very effective as long as the horse has received adequate training. When the rider pulls the reins, the pressure goes onto the horse's head and nose instead of the mouth. A well constructed bitless bridle distributes the pressure over the whole head, to avoid only one area being pressed on.Different Types Of Bitless BridlesThere are many different types of bridles available in the market. The majority of the bridles available are mainly in line with the bitless sidepull bridle design. Some of the bitless bridles include the Western and the English bridles. Some standard english bridles can also sometimes be adjusted and used as a bitless bridle (and sometimes used with a bit). One of these bridles is the Micklem Bridle that offers both options.Click on the picture below to view the bridle in the photo.
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Horse Rugging Temperatures
⋙ CHECKOUT OUR TOP SELLING WINTER HORSE RUGS FOR SALE HERE ⋘ Horse owners have different opinions when it comes to rugging your horse correctly for temperature, rain, humidity, sun and protection from insects. Horses actually handle the cold better than heat, and a common misconception amongst horse owners is that horses needs to be rugged at night as soon as it is getting a bit cooler at nights. Areas to consider before rugging your horse:- Horses naturally move around in the wild and will get colder if stabled- The horse's natural insulation is removed if clipped, and will therefore require heavier rugging- Some breeds to better in the cold/warm weather than others- A horse that has got enough weight on them will handle the cold better than a skinny horse- It is important to remove heavy rugs during the day if the sun is out, as a rug disrupts a horse natural heat regulation.- Rainy weather can be very humid, and it is sometimes better to leave a horse unrugged in the rain rather than keeping it sweaty in a humid rainy storm.Rugging Temperatures (Celsius)As a general rule, if your horse is not clipped and in healthy shape, the following temperatures may require rugging if your horse is stabled:- Negative 10 to 0 degrees1200Denier with 300gram polyfill rug with a quaity cotton or fleece rug underneath is recommended. Make sure you use a combo rug.- 0 to 5 degrees200gram polyfill, medium weight rug.- 5 to 10 degreesLightWeight rug, 150gram polyfill. (No fill during the day if Sunny).- 10 to 15 degreesLight cotton rug, nothing or zero fill.- 15 degrees and upNo rug required, mesh rug can be used for protection of sun or insects.
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5 Facts You Didn't Know About The Waler Horse
The Waler Horse is a horse breed that originates in Australia, and was recognised as a breed around the 1850s. They tend to be between 15-16hands and are often referred to as 'walers'. They are believed to have a bit of thoroughbred, timor pony, arab and Cape horse in them. Hence the breed is very diversified and used in a lot of different disciplines. Here are 5 Facts that the waler horse is famous for: 1) Only One Waler Horse Returned From The WarFor the first world war, around 140,000 waler horses were sent to be used in the war overseas, as they are a tough hardy breed. However only one waler horse returned back to Australia after the war. That horse was called 'Sandy' and was returned to Australia as he served as the horse for Major General Sir William Bridges. Sandy was eventually put down in Australia due to age and health issues. Photo: The Waler Horse2) Breeding associations not established until 1986The Waler Horse association was not established until 1986, following concerns from the population that the breed was not being preserved. There are a number of breeders around Australia today and a recognised studbook to help and preserve the origins of the breed.3) The Story Behind Their Name: Waler HorseThey were originally called New Waler Horses as they originates from New South Wales. However they are today only recognised and referred to as Waler Horses.4) The link between Walers & BrumbysWaler horses are known for living in the wild in australia, the same as brumbies. In theory they are the same breed - however a waler horse has got old bloodlines and were specifically bred for the military. Only a small percentage of the brumby population can be refered to as waler horses as it can't have any new breeding developed in them.5) 10,000 Waler Horses Culled in 2013There was al lot of controvery when around 10,000 waler horses were called in the Northern Territory in May 2013. (new kings canyon). People were arguing that shooting the horses won't solve any issues with their rising numbers, and it is expensive for tax payers to pay $200 per horses when 10,000 horses were to be culled ($2million). The motives of the cullen was to reduce numbers and to preserve the breed. Photo: Pinterest
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5 Best Horse Feed To Build Topline
There are a lot of mixed messages and controversy about what and how to feed your horse. It doesn't help that a lot of the big feed brand names are pushing marketing messages onto you, making it very difficult to know what is true and what are facts and what are myths. Honestly, we would probably scrap all the random stuff and follow a balanced commercial diet that is as close to natural as possible. As long as you make sure to feed at least the minimum recommended amount, taking into account the amount of work the horse is in and the age. Reasons Sloping Topline - Age: Older horses tend to loose their topline (this is natural and nothing to worry about)- Breed: Some breeds have a more distinct topline than others- Quality of Feed: Grass or hay that is dry and low in nutritional value won't help you even if you feed a lot of it. Make sure you add extra hay if your natural pasture is dry or not enough- Amount of work: Horses that are kept in full work require more feed, make sure you feed enough fats, carbs and proteins.- Broodmare: Broodmares tend to get a sloping topline due to natural reasons.- Muscle density: Horses that are on 'spell' and not in full work can loose their back muscles, making the topline more distinct. 5 Best Horse Feeds to Build Topline Number one advise is to keep it simple, don't buy every expensive formula and vitamines you come across. Use common sense! Remember the most important thing is to give your horse a balanced diet, and make sure you feed enough of it from a quality source. The following feeds are great for filling out the topline. 1) Copra MealThe high fat content in copra meal makes it a great additive for horses that easily drop in weight. It also provides extra shine to the horse's coat.2) Quality Hay/GrassAs previously stated, keep it simple and stick to natural sources. A balanced diet with a lot of hay will do wonders to your horses topline.3) Full fat soya bean mealSoya bean meal is a great carb and protein source for your horse, just make sure you get it from a quality source.4) SpeedibeetSpeedibeet is an allround feed with high nutrional content. It is not only known to fill out the topline, but also to give extra shine to your horses coat, and sometimes develop dapples.5) Amino acids (Lysine & Methionine)If you want to give any additives, amino acids are essential. Especially lysines and methionine.
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